I am a viking.

It is said that the soul of a risotto is its stock. I have to confess, I don’t really heed the advice implied in this little adage, usually opting for bouillon cubes or concentrated dashi rather than homemade stock. I mean, can you blame me? Stock takes time to make from scratch, and besides, rarely do I have the requisite carcasses tucked away in the icebox.

But yesterday I cooked a duck. I smoked it; tea-smoked it, to be precise. It was rather nice, but it wasn’t perfect and the recipe wasn’t an original, so I’m not going to post it. Anyway, at the end of the meal I was left with a duck carcass, still heavy with delicious meat and fat (because I sucked at carving it), so I decided to make a stock. And what better use of stock is there than possessing a risotto? None. There is no better use.

I have to say, the risotto was not noticeably better or more savory than other risottos I’ve made with store-bought stocks, and it wasn’t even particularly ducky. It was very good, though; on a whim, I threw in some pickled ginger that really sung a lovely, sweet-and-sour harmony with the rich tones of duck and Pleasant Ridge Reserve (quite possibly my favorite cheese). The Brazil nuts were a nice touch as well, lending a firm crunch and a mellow coconutty flavor.

Duck and Brazil Nut Risotto

For the stock:

1 duck carcass, roughly chopped
1 onion, halved
1/2 cup red wine
1 inch ginger
2 cloves garlic
about 1 gallon water
salt
pepper

1. Put everything in a large stockpot and boil over medium-high heat for about 3 and a half hours, or until stock is dark brown and flavorful.
2. Strain and refrigerate until ready to use.

1/2 shallot, diced
1/4 red onion, diced
about 2 tablespoons beni shoga (red pickled ginger)
8-10 Brazil nuts, chopped
1 cup Arborio rice
1 cup red wine
about 6 cups duck stock (substitute a mix of beef and chicken stock)
3/4 stalk celery, sliced
about 1 cup duck meat, chopped or pulled (I used the bits stuck to the bones after I pulled them from the stock)
1/2 cup Gruyere or similar cheese
olive oil
salt
pepper

1. Bring stock to a simmer.
2. Heat olive oil in a deep frying pan over medium heat. Sauté onions with salt and pepper until translucent. Add shallots, beni shoga, and Brazils and sauté until shallots are translucent.
3. Add rice and stir well to coat with oil. Increase heat and keep stirring to toast grains.
4. When rice turns opaque, add half the wine, then reduce heat back to medium-high.
5. Add a ladleful of stock and cook, stirring often. When most of the liquid has evaporated or been absorbed, add more stock and continue stirring. Repeat this step several times until rice has nearly finished cooking.
6. After about 10-15 minutes, add celery.
7. Once rice is al dente, add duck meat and a small amount of stock and fold into risotto.
8. Add cheese and remaining wine. Stir to melt cheese evenly and cook away remaining liquid.

After a long hiatus, New Risotto Sunday returns! It has been a while since I have had the free time, not to mention the inclination to make a new risotto, but as I am currently unemployed and residing with my parents, I really have little better to do.

Today’s risotto was based on a package of buckwheat seeds that I bought at an omiyage stand in Oita two months ago. Along with a tin of saffron and a jar of yuzu-kosho, it was one of few foodstuffs I actually salvaged during my massive apartment cleanout in Japan. And I’m glad I did; the buckwheat was very nice in the risotto, lending a springy texture and mild nuttiness. Inspired by some buckwheat blinis with lox and creme fraiche I saw on TV, I rounded out the dish with salty flakes of smoked salmon and a dollop of tangy chevre.

Buckwheat and Smoked Salmon Risotto

1 cup whole buckwheat seeds
1/2 cup Arborio rice
about 6 cups chicken, seafood, or vegetable stock
about 10 cherry tomatoes
1/4 onion, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
juice of 1 lemon
about 1 cup smoked salmon, flaked (don’t use lox, it’s too soft)
1 pinch saffron, crumbled (optional)
about 12 chives, chopped
about 1/4 cup chevre
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
olive oil, for sauteing
salt and pepper, to taste

1. Roast tomatoes, whole, using your preferred method of roasting. Remove and discard skin and reserve juice.
2. Bring stock to a simmer.
3. Heat about two tablespoons olive oil in a deep frying pan over medium heat. Sauté garlic and onions with salt and white pepper until onions are just translucent. Add rice and buckwheat to the pan and stir well to coat with oil. Increase heat and keep stirring to toast grains.
4. When rice turns opaque, add saffron and half the lemon juice, then reduce heat back to medium.
5. Add a ladleful of stock and cook, stirring often. When most of the liquid has evaporated or been absorbed, add more stock and continue stirring. Repeat this step several times until rice has nearly finished cooking.
6. Add roasted tomatoes, chives, and remaining lemon juice, and cook until liquid is mostly gone.
7. Add cheese, salmon, and a small amount of stock. Stir to melt cheese evenly. Garnish with pine nuts and chives and serve immediately.