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Rice as Self, Corn as Nonentity: Thoughts on Food Identity and Culture Inspired by The Omnivore’s Dilemma

22 Dec

You have to wonder why we Americans don’t worship this plant as feverishly as the Aztecs; like they once did, we make extraordinary sacrifices to it.

(Michael Pollan, The Omnivore’s Dilemma)

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I mentioned in my previous post that I am currently reading The Omnivore’s Dilemma, Michael Pollan’s universally acclaimed investigative expose/focused history/personal travelogue about food production in the United States. I recently finished the first part, which tells the sordid story of how corn came to be so ubiquitous in American food and other consumer products, often in sneaky and perturbing ways.

The book has its flaws, but so far I am very impressed with just how detailed and revealing Pollan’s account of King Corn’s coup d’etat has been. Specifically, the way he tracks and synthesizes various cultural, biological, economic, and especially political developments that all have led to corn’s rather ridiculously powerful grip on the United States foodscape is engrossing. It’s an excellent work of literary journalism, and more than that, it’s a brilliant work of food scholarship.

One of Pollan’s most interesting points about corn comes early on in the book, when he discusses how the Aztecs associated themselves and their culture with maize so strongly that they called themselves the “corn people.” (more…)

Satsuma Kaze さつま風

1 Nov

Sweet potatoes were brought to Satsuma in 17th century. Kagoshima is now the kingdom of Satsuma-imo.

(Kagoshima cookie wrapper)

 

I live in Kyushu, the southernmost major island of the Japanese archipelago. It lies a comfortable distance away from the locus of metropolitan Kantō-Kansai hegemony, and Japanese travel companies generally promote Kyushu as rural and relaxing, quirky, old-fashioned, and nostalgic. The land is rugged and beautiful, the food is hearty and rich, the liquor is strong and simple, and the hot spring resorts are picturesque and plentiful. It has a history and culture both distant and familiar. It is the furusato, and it is exotic Japan.

Last weekend, my girlfriend and I took a three-hour train ride to scenic Kagoshima prefecture, which is Kyushu, distilled.

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Our far too short two-night stay began in Kirishima, a mountain town famous for its very, very sulfuric hot springs. How sulfuric, you ask? So sulfuric that everywhere you go, the air smells like eggs in various stages of boiling or rotting – which, I promise, is not as nauseating as it sounds. In fact, it was quite tolerable, and oddly invigorating. It’s a sort of atmospheric quirk that helps set Kirishima apart from normal life in Japan, a constant reminder that you’re situated atop a volatile juncture on the Pacific Ring of Fire. The springs there are so active and hot, you can hear them gurgling away through holes in the ground, and clouds of pure white steam periodically billow upwards out of unseen tears in the densely forested mountain terrain.

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As is customary in Japanese resorts, our stay included complimentary dinner and breakfast. Both meals were delicious, and deliciously Japanese: fresh, seasonal, local, and so attractively arranged they could have been snapshots in a coffee table book. (Our friend Koizumi would have felt quite at home.) (more…)

Restaurant Ertruğrul レストランエルトゥールル

10 Dec

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Japan, and especially this part of Japan, is not known for its ethnic diversity, which is reflected in the relatively narrow variety of international foods available. Yes, there are a few import stores here and there, and Fukuoka City has a decent range of non-Japanese eateries – including Jamaican, African, Russian, Thai, Latin American, and Indian restaurants – but the most exotic fare you’re likely to find here in Kitakyushu is tteokbokki or peanut butter.

Or so I thought. A few weeks ago, I was surprised and delighted to learn that a Turkish restaurant had recently opened downtown, serving up kebab, pilaf, and Turkish ice cream, among other delicacies. Recently, I had started to miss Middle Eastern food more than I ever thought I would, mostly thanks to the memory of Zankou‘s maddeningly juicy rotisserie chicken and sweet, creamy garlic sauce (I swear they put crack in that stuff). So the prospect of some spit-roasted meat and a little homemade hummus was very enticing.

But before I get into the food, I need to relay the story behind Restaurant Ertugrul: Cuisine of the Ottoman Empire. As I was paying my bill, I began talking with the owner, who said he came to Japan from Turkey thirteen years ago and had been running a used car dealership since then. Why he decided to open a restaurant, I failed to ask, but after reading a printout he handed to me and my dinner companion, I was able to glean at least a few of his reasons.

(more…)

Kumamoto 熊本

5 Dec

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A little over a week ago, a certain, um… major disappointment – or shall we simply call it a calamitous circumstance – set me on a downward spiral of self-doubt and nihilism, at the bottom of which buzzed a flashing neon sign: “Why did I come to Japan?” I’m cold. I’m lonely. I can’t sleep, I can’t afford a new coat, I can’t find any imperial stouts, and I can’t read my phone bill, much less understand what the hell anyone around me is saying at work. Everything sucks!

But despite frustrations such as these, last week I was reminded of all the things that had originally enticed me to move here when I took a few days off from work and caught the limited express train to Kumamoto. Literally “the origin of bears” (I love Japanese names), Kumamoto is the capital city of the prefecture of the same name, due south of Fukuoka and centrally located on the island of Kyushu. I wasn’t sure what to expect of Kumamoto; although it looked like a fun and interesting city from the little research I had done beforehand, a few of my friends warned me that it was a bit of a bore, and that I should just go to the other destination I was considering – Osaka – instead.

But, boy, am I glad I didn’t. Here’s why: (more…)

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