Japanese cuisine: bland, unadorned, monotonous. All it takes to dispel this common misconception is a survey of Japanese condiments. Often adopted from Chinese or European culinary traditions, Japanese condiments are a diverse and flavorful lot. There is shōyu, ginger, and wasabi, of course, but also sōsu, teriyaki sauce, kabayaki sauce, ika sauce vinegar, egg, mentaiko, mentaiko mayonnaise, ponzu, tsuyu, umeboshi, shiso, umeshiso, katsuobushi, katsuoume, yakitori tare, hot mustard, miso, aonori, hijiki, shichimi, ichimi, sansho, ajishio, furikake, tekka, tsukemono, takana, sesame seeds, garlic, etc., etc., etc.
One of my favorites is a substance called yuzu-koshō 柚子胡椒, made from the fragrant peel of the yuzu ground with salt, sugar, spicy green chilies and often MSG into a fine, evil wasabi-looking forest-green paste. Its aroma is warm, peppery, and citric with a top note of pine needles; its flavor is thorny and permeating with heat, acidity, and salt. It is delicious, and an absolute must for Japanese hotpot (nabe 鍋) dishes. To me, it is the flavor of Japanese winter.
It isn’t winter yet, but it’s getting there. Please enjoy this warm and aromatic risotto on a cool autumn evening.
Yuzu-koshō Risotto with Japanese Mushrooms (more…)
