Most of the time, when I tell Japanese people what state I’m from, they look at me with a cocked head or a confused squint. To explain, I usually say that Wisconsin is like the Hokkaido of America: just about as north as the country gets, aggressively cold in the winter, full of relatively unspoiled natural scenery, mostly rural, and famous for snow, corn, dairy products, and beer.
The comparison may only work on a superficial level, but it makes an effective springboard to discuss Hokkaido food. Befitting its cold climate, its history as a northern frontier, and its (surprising) German influence, the cuisine of Japan’s old “barbarian island” 蝦夷が島 is remarkably hearty, heartier than one might expect of Japanese food – and believe me, Japanese food can be very, very hearty.
But while homey fare like tonkotsu ramen, hamburger steaks, Japanese curry, and okonomiyaki are popular throughout the country, for some reason I find Hokkaido’s meibutsu particularly warming and stalwart: (more…)
